Monday 14 October 2013

Vietnam and Cambodia

Trekking with tribes in Sapa, swimming in Halong Bay, letting the lanterns lead the way in Hoi An, drinking from a sea bar in Nha Trang, crawling through the Cu Chi Tunnels, experiencing the best foods in Saigon, being blown away by Angkor and learning the horrors of history in Phnom Penh.

Want to know how much you can squeeze into a trip to Vietnam and Cambodia?

We had just three weeks in Indochina and this is how we did it.

Come on the adventure with us, see what we saw through our eyes.

*Vision shot with iPhone, GoPro and Canon 650 DSLR.

(Unfortunately you will not be able to view the video on mobile devices, just the old fashioned pc way)



Saturday 14 September 2013

The kids of Cambodia

"Where are you from?" A young boy accosted us in one of Siem Reap's main streets.

"We're from Australia," we said.

"Ah, G'day mate," he responded.

We sounded amused, we'd heard that plenty of times before.

What we hadn't heard in any of our trips around Asia was what he rattled off next.

In fluent English he proceeded to tell us that Kevin Rudd was our Prime Minister again, but only recently.  Before him Julia Gillard, before her Kevin Rudd, before him John Howard and so on and so on until he had named every single one of Australia's PMs right back to Edmund Barton.

Gobsmacked, we looked at each other and whispered "we couldn't even do that".

I can't even remember his name.

He was only about ten years old and would ride his bike the six kilometres from his home in the Angkor Archeological Park to town every day to sell books for his family.  He told us his siblings weren't as smart as he was.

At the time I didn't understand why he didn't just stay around Angkor and try to sell books to tourists there instead coming all the way into Siem Reap.  It wasn't until the next day when we arrived by tuk tuk that it dawned on us.  He was competing with hundreds of children who flood the park from sunrise to sunset selling their wares all for the tourist dollar.  It's easier in town.

For us it's sad to see children so young 'working'.  For them, it's life.

We soon realised that most of the Angkor kids could recite Australia's Prime Ministers.





We were admiring the beauty of Ta Phrom temple quite early one morning when we stumbled upon a group of children laughing.  I asked if I could take their photo, they said yes.

Their smiles were encouraging.  All they wanted was to see the pictures afterwards.  They giggled, amused by the images.



I took about eight photos, shared two minutes of conversation, then thanked them for their time and waved goodbye.

They waved back but it took merely two steps before the eldest was at our heels.

"We need money for school, no money, no money miss, we need money for school."  The well rehearsed whine repeated over and over.

Even if that were true, I doubt it would get used for their education.

Begging isn't encouraged in Cambodia but some children here don't even have to put out their hands. 

We watched as tourists approached the kids instead of the other way around, willingly handing over money even before asked.  

With irresponsible visitors like this, it's easy to understand why some children don't go to school choosing to 'hang out' at the temples instead.

In a moment of escaping the heat of Bayon temple underneath the shade of a tree we saw two young boys talking and laughing with one another while other kids were begging for money.  It was only when the local police drove past and they ducked behind the ruin's wall that we knew they weren't supposed to be there.  

Little rebels not going to school or begging, just happy being kids. 

A rare sight indeed.

On our last night in Siem Reap, I was approached by another young boy.

My robotic response had become simple, I was already shaking my head and saying no.

At this stage I had become desensitised to the whining, that I hadn't even heard what he was saying until about the eighth time he repeated it.

"No money miss, we need milk, milk to feed my baby sister."

All of a sudden his mother, severely disfigured appeared from nowhere, a crying baby attached to her hip and shaking an empty milk bottle.

"No money miss, we need milk, milk to feed my baby sister."

In a matter of seconds the boy grabbed my arm and dragged me to the convenience store, up the aisle and pointed to the baby milk formula.  They wanted the larger container, the price tag 24 dollars.  I said it was too much and agreed on the smaller one for 7 dollars.  I paid the money and we left.  How could I say no, at least the baby wouldn't go hungry.

"You've just been scammed," Brad said as we headed off down the road.

"What?" I turned around.  It was then I saw about six women all with empty milk bottles and crying babies trying to lure tourists into the convenience store.  I hadn't seen them before.  I wondered what they did to the babies to make them cry on queue.

I felt used, angry and upset I had been scammed and wanted to go and demand my money back but after a few minutes I gained perspective.  I don't think twice about spending that money at home.  I should be more angry that I pay 7 dollars for two coffees at my local cafe.  

Although the mother didn't fill up that milk bottle straight away and feed her child, I have no doubt that money eventually will go to helping feed her family.

A motive, just like the rest of the kids of Cambodia we encountered.







Niagara Falls, winter wonderland but tacky town

Niagara Falls truly is a spectacular sight.

Niagara Falls, Canada
I am sure it doesn't matter what time of year you visit, I can guarantee you will be blown away by its beauty and mist.

We were blessed to experience one of the world's most famous waterfalls in the chilly heart of winter.

Frosty falls of Niagara, Canada

The crystallised edges and icycles frozen in time compound the magic that eradiates when the neverending roar of water pours over the cliff face you are standing on.

Like staring into a flame, one could watch the maiden's mist for hours, if not for the numb sensation in your fingers and toes.

Unfortunately in the winter most of the fall's activities aren't running and in particular the famous trip on the Maid of the Mist so other than circumnavigate the falls there is not much else to do.

A pivet from the edge you can wonder through the surrounding parks and with a fresh layer of snow on the ground it is quite picturesque time of year but given the sub-zero temperatures you won't want to be spending too much time outdoors.



But it is once you walk back to town to find some warmth, that you leave the beauty behind.

Niagara Falls, the town, is like a carnival - theme park on steroids and a wannabe mini-Vegas.

It's a tacky town.

Tacky town, Niagara Falls
 The beauty of the falls is knocked out of you by a slap in the face of pure cheese.

The environmental winter wonderland you have just admired is now forgotten amidst flashing lights, crazy sirens and voices taunting you to enter a haunted house.

I am curious as to what the town authorities were thinking by allowing this planning vandalism to occur and overshadow such an amazing icon.

I understand given the tourism value of Niagara, town planners would be wanting to keep you in the area for as long as possible, but why not create an atmosphere that compliments the falls, not drowns them out?

I fear the monster ride they have created is a beast that can not be tamed and the bright lights and loud noises of poor planning will continue to grow louder than the roar of the falls themselves.

This put us off from visiting the United States side, which is supposed to be even worse.

Definitely go, see the falls and marvel at its beauty but I would stay no longer than one night.


Wednesday 6 March 2013

A sweet and sour taste of Cuba

"What's Cuba like?"

That is the most asked question since we've returned home from our travels.

Typical street scene in Havana, Cuba
I still struggle trying to explain our experience properly.

Cuba is a fascinating and challenging country and one unlike any I have ever visited before.

I loved it, but I hated it.

It's everything I thought it would be, but I wanted it to be so much more.

Let me explain.

We spent a week in the country's capital, Havana over New Year's Eve.

We had no issues with getting into the country.  We simply bought a $US15 'tourist card' from the airline at our departure point which was El Salvador.  Ignore the advice from the Cuban Embassy in Canberra and offered by travel agents that you need to organise a $AUD60 visa before you leave Australia , you don't.


"You English, speak English, man!"

That rude blast was our welcome and first impressions of Cuba at the airport.  We had tried speaking Spanish to a taxi driver, albeit not fluently but at least we tried.  He didn't appreciate it, instead he seemed frustrated with our very presence.

We brushed it off having travelled enough to not let one person having a bad day ruin our experience.  We learnt pretty quickly that Cubans are very well educated and almost all of them speak fluent English.

Old Havana, Cuba


Because we only stayed a week in Havana, we chose to stay at a hotel in the old quarter to be a close walking distance to most attractions.  If you don't want to stay in one of the government hotels, the other accommodation option in Cuba is family homestays or casa particulares.

We were greeted with a beautiful foyer and two ice-cold mojitos at the boutique Hostal Los Frailes, an old monastery.  This was the welcome to Cuba we had been looking for.

Hostal Los Frailes, Havana







An electrical fire in one of the rooms meant they had to put us up in another hotel around the corner for the night.  We had no problem with this, it was all part of the experience.

It turned out to be the Ambos Mundos Hotel, famous for where Ernest Hemingway used to stay when he was in town.

We walked into the foyer and walked back in time.

The beauty of Cuba is that for our generation, everything old is new to us.  We never experienced a fifties era of smokey piano bars, rhythm and blues bands on street corners, cigar-smoking men dressed in dapper suits drinking rum at lunch while old cars roamed cobblestone streets outside.

It's a set straight out of the movies.

We couldn't believe our luck as we sipped on another mojito at the hotel bar, but as I will explain later, Ambos Mundos Hotel is also where the most sour taste of Cuba was left in our mouths.

Ambos Mundos Hotel, Havana







There are many things to see and do in Havana.

Take a ride in an old 'yank tank' taxi.  It's no wonder they have become such an iconic symbol of the city, the streets are dotted with them.  They're not all 'official' metered ones though so always organise a price before you hop in.

Other transport options include the Coco scooter taxi and pedal-powered bikes which other than walking is the only way to get through parts of the old town which is blocked off to traffic.

Transport options in Havana, Cuba

















Wonder the streets.

The colourful characters will keep you entertained for hours and you might even be lucky to catch a street fiesta especially around New Years.

Street fiesta, Old Havana
Be warned though, snapping away will cost you.  Cubans are very savvy when it comes to accosting tourists who have just taken a photo of them.  The standard price, 1 CUC which is the equivalent of $US1.

There are two types of currency in Cuba.  A currency for locals (Cuban Peso) and a currency for tourists (Cuban Convertible Peso - CUC).  The Cuban Convertible Peso is 25 times more valuable than the local currency which is why they're so keen to get their hands on them.

You can't change Australian money in Cuba either, Canadian is best as there is a bigger fee exchanging US dollars.  The few ATMs don't accept Mastercard either, only Visa.

Colourful characters of Old Havana, Cuba










Spend New Year's Eve under the stars.

One of the biggest parties of the year takes place in Havana's Cathedral Square.  Your ticket gets you a gala dinner, unlimited drinks and entertainment, set against the backdrop of a 235 year old cathedral.

Although a tad on the expensive side but comparable to celebrations back home, this is one of the best New Year's Eve parties I have ever experienced.

Cathedral Square, Havana
 Go and see the 9 o'clock cannon shot across the bay at Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabana.

In the 18th century, a morning and evening cannon shot boomed out across the bay to signal the opening and closing of the gates to protect the city.  Today the 9 o'clock cannon shot is a symbol of history and tradition, a great tourist attraction and a useful time keeping tool for locals.

It's also a great spot to take in the views of Havana City at sunset.

To get there, catch the local ferry across the bay to Casablanca, walk up the hill where Che Guevara's former house sits, take in the view at the big white statue of the Christ of Havana, continue past an open-air military museum with weapons from the Cuban Missile Crisis on display and onto the fortress.

You can also access Morro Castle from here which sits precariously between the bay and ocean, its presence still a reminder of the country's vulnerable past.
Witnessing the 9 o'clock cannon shot, Havana























I wouldn't normally include a cemetery as a must do for a city but the Colon Cemetery in Havana is pretty impressive.


Founded in 1876, the cemetery is spread across 140 acres, has over 500 major mausoleums, chapels and family vaults, 800,000 graves and 1 million interments.

It also has a 23 metre high monument to firefighters who lost their lives in the great fire of May 17, 1890.

Catch a taxi from the old town to get there, don't attempt to walk.  Take it from me, it's quite a distance!


Colon Cemetery, Havana






If you do want to stretch your legs, a great route to take is along the ocean's edge and sea wall of the Malecon, an 8 kilometre esplanade.

Despite most of the buildings along this stretch being quite dilapidated compared with inside the old quarter, it gives you a better sense of the 'real' Havana.

Malecon, Havana
Visit the Museo de la Revolucion (Museum of the Revolution).

Housed in what was the Presidential Palace, it became a museum following the Cuban Revolution when Fulgencio Batista was overthrown as President by Fidel Castro and his followers.  Bullet holes are still in the palace walls today and there is quite a collection of blood stained uniforms on display.

It is quite an interesting take on the events of that time, a lot of chest pumping propoganda which feels like Castro himself has personally written.

The most amusing item on display is a wall of caricatures of Batista, Ronald Regan, George Bush Senior and George W Bush with words including "Thank you cretin for helping us to strengthen the revolution".


Museum of the Revolution, Havana


Head to the beach.

About a 20 minute drive from the city is the Playas Del Este, a 9 kilometre stretch of coastline scattered with beach towns.  We spent the day in Guanabo, a beach-side community favoured more by local tourists than international ones.

Having just been spoiled by the beaches of Mexico, Guanabo failed to impress us on the same level.  This is Cuba though and ruined and desolate buildings aside, the water was beautiful and a refreshing change to the hussle and bustle of the city.
Guanabo, Cuba




Have a mojito or two at the Havana Club Museum and Bar.

There's a great band and a great vibe.  At 4 CUC a drink though, you can find cheaper elsewhere.

Havana Club Museum and Bar







These are just a few of the many things to see and do in Havana, let alone the rest of Cuba.

And it seems word is spreading.

One report I read said that between 1990 and 2010 tourist numbers had risen from 360,000 to 2.66 million a year.  Wikipedia says that figure is now over 3 million.

One of the reasons for Cuba's recent improved tourist numbers, is that it is a country in transition.

After five decades of Cuban communist style rule, in the post Fidel Castro days there has been a shift away from state dependence.  Although Cuba is still ruled by a Castro, Fidel's brother Raul, Cuba is transforming into a country of individual responsibility and private enterprise.

One of the many signs of Fidel Castro around Havana, Cuba






Although it is a work in progress many Cubans still live in poverty and with restricted freedoms.

This is no more evident than trying to speak to Cubans in the tourism industry.  Trying to muster a smile from their faces is a hard task and in general they exude the epitome of unhappiness.  They don't dare to dream of being a tourist themselves one day, but whisper how lucky we are to be one.

We put all this down to some of the reasons we had our belongings stolen from the Ambos Mundos Hotel.

A camera case with USB sticks of all of our trip photos was taken from our room while were having breakfast.  We didn't notice until four days later but by then they insisted that nothing had been found, reported or handed in.

Frustrated and with no other option we offered a monetary reward.

Two hours later we were told there was a package waiting for us at the hotel reception and we had until 8 o'clock to pick it up.  It was all there, they had no use for USB sticks.

We considered not giving the reward we offered and just taking our stuff and leaving however we had just booked a taxi through our other hotel for 4am the following morning for the airport and didn't want to risk our safety.

This was so frustrating, not because we were blackmailed out of $100 but because it encourages them to continue doing it to other tourists.  They literally screamed from the back room when we left, it's probably more money than they get paid in a year.

As it turns out the taxi driver who took us to the airport also tried to rip us off which ended in an unpleasant argument.  We had pre-organised a price with the hotel but didn't reiterate it to the driver so he put the meter on and took us on a scenic route to the airport.  We stood our ground and walked off only paying the original price.

So it was in the final hours of our Cuba trip that almost ruined our whole experience and I hate that.  But I guess those moments can be the pitfalls of travelling.  Every experience is different and it all comes down to circumstance when you are there.

Cuba is not a place I am dying to return to right away however I would love to go back and see it again down the track someday to hopefully see its transformation and potential realised.

Markets, Havana



















Thursday 21 February 2013

Ruins and cobblestone streets of Guatemala

We hadn't heard great things about Belize City during our stay on Caye Caulker.

In fact it was locals who had told us not to go there because it was really quite dangerous.

With limited time and so much ground yet to cover, we decided to heed their warning and head straight to Guatemala.

I'm glad we did.

According to the United States consular affairs website Belize recorded 145 murders in 2012, a record number.  Belize's per capita homicide rate ranks among the highest in the world with the majority occurring in Belize City.  While most of the violence is due to an ongoing warfare between local groups over drug smuggling, threats and robberies against tourists are not uncommon. The Australian Smart Traveller website says you should exercise a high degree of caution in Belize because of high levels of serious crime.

Needless to say we were quite happy to jump straight off the water taxi at Belize City and straight onto a bus headed for the Belize-Guatemalan border.

Crossing the Belize-Guatemalan border










Within five minutes of crossing the border our smiles were ripped off our faces and so was the money out of our wallets.

Lesson learned, but when border authorities tell you there is a price to pay to enter the country, ask for written evidence.  We didn't and we paid the price.  It wasn't until a traveller behind us questioned the fee and argued with the officer that we realised we should have done the same.

A frustrating trip to the ATM where we received less money than we asked for and an overpriced tour later and our first impression of Guatemala wasn't great.

Lucky for them it was Christmas Day and the season for giving.  Unlucky for us.

We arrived in Flores, a town surrounded by lake Peten Itza, and our base to discover Tikal, the most famous Mayan ruins in Guatemala.

Don't get me wrong, Flores is lovely with the lake giving the town a peaceful, serene aura however it is quite small and there isn't much to do other than circumnavigate the water's edge and meander through the laneways.

Flores, Guatemala








The lake is a very popular spot for locals and because we were there on Christmas Day many families took the opportunity to spend time with one another by the edge.  At night the streets were lit up by flashes of firecrackers and laughter of the children lighting them.

Christmas night firecrackers light up the streets of Flores, Guatemala


We were up around 3 am for the sunrise tour of Tikal.

The bus took about 75 minutes to get to the park and then once through the entrance gates, we walked about 15 minutes in darkness until we were clapping by candlelight beneath the main temple.

Without sight our senses were heightened to the acoustics of the plaza which fascinatingly echos back the sound of the Quetzal bird.

A steep climb to the top of another temple and suddenly we were sitting on the steps of ruins which are thousands of years old staring out across the treetops of the Guatemalan rainforest.

In silence, we sat and waited for the jungle to wake.

Sunrise at Tikal, Flores
UNESCO lists 54 species of animals and 333 species of birds here and while not all of them were vocal, we started to hear the music of jungle's morning as the fog began to lift.

The mist clouded our view of a crystal clear sunrise however a foggy dawn didn't quell the magic and mystery of this ancient site.

The eerie atmosphere didn't clear until around 9 am when clear skies revealed the true beauty of this UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Tikal, Guatemala





Tikal's charm isn't what has already been discovered.

It is that many of the ruins and history are still uncovered with funding inhibiting excavation.  Due to the nature of the limestone, the ruins are better preserved under the ground than to be exposed to the elements.

It's beauty far surpasses that of Chichen Itza which in comparison, in my opinion, was very sterile and overcrowded by tourists.

Although doing the sunrise experience meant the hoards of visitors were yet to arrive, in those early hours with a handful of other tourists, Tikal felt like ours and ours alone to discover.

Tikal, Guatemala
Despite many travel warnings not to travel on public transport at night in Guatemala, we chanced a night bus to Guatemala City just so we didn't waste a day.

Once we set off, it wasn't the fear of being hijacked or robbed that concerned us the most, it was the rickety double decker bus with no shocks and a lead foot driver.

A ten hour trip swaying dangerously from side to side kept us awake all night and fearing every corner.

Like Belize City, we hadn't heard great things about Guatemala City so we decided to just travel on an hour further to Antigua.

Antigua is a beautiful, picturesque, colonial city, lined with cobblestone streets.  The UNESCO World Heritage Site used to be the capital until a series of earthquakes in the 1700's destroyed thousands of buildings.  You can still see many of the ruins today untouched where they crumbled hundreds of years ago.

Antigua, Guatemala
Antigua is also nestled between three forboding volcanoes which offer hiking and gravel boarding experiences for the adventurous.

The majestic mountain scene also offers a spectacular sunset vista from one of the many rooftop bars.

Antigua sunset, Guatemala
Antigua is a place we could have easily unpacked our backpacks for a while, opened our Spanish books again and really immersed ourselves in the culture of Central America.

Oh and it has really great coffee too, the best of all our travels this trip.

We were truly disappointed to leave this intriguing city.

Holistico Hostel, Antigua





Wednesday 20 February 2013

We nearly died to get to Caye Caulker

There have been four times in my life when I thought I was going to die, literally.

Two near drownings as a child, one very scary charter plane flight during a thunder and lightning storm for work and most recently during our trip to Belize.

We actually thought we were lucky scoring one of the last standby spots on a water taxi from Chetumal in Mexico, which would take us on an hour and half journey to the island of Caye Caulker in Belize.

Getting the tickets is where the elation ended and the waiting began.

After an hour past departure time, the Mexican army showed up.

Our smiles were wiped from our faces when told to line all our bags up on deck for border security.

Authorities and drug dogs checking our bags at the water taxi in Chetumal, Mexico
Of course we didn't have anything in our bags that would arise suspicion but you can't help hold your breath when the drug dogs pass your luggage, just praying they don't sit down.

Some fellow travellers we met celebrating the end of the world in Playa Del Carmen, weren't so lucky.  Their bags were searched and the hippy trinkets, natural remedies and skull crystal they had packed raised suspicions and further delayed our travel.

Eventually they were free to go but then the Captain raised concerns that the boat was overbooked with too much luggage and too many people.  Despite this, given the water taxi was the only one departing that day, they packed everyone and everything on board and set sail.

Finally we were off and our smiles returned, momentarily.

Our smiles returned as we set off for Belize on the water taxi

We opted to sit up top with about ten other people.  I think there would have been about 40 people underneath.

At first the choppy conditions were funny, passengers getting smashed by waves brought about nervous laughter all round.

It was when the boat started really swaying and the deckhands were running to each side of the boat, hanging off the sides to counterbalance it, that we knew we were in some trouble.

Suddenly the nose of the water taxi dove into the current and it tipped at what felt like a ninety degree angle.

At that point I was hanging off the side, leg in air, ready to jump and thinking even if I leaped as far as I could, the boat was going to come down on top of me.

In a moment that felt like a lifetime, the boat corrected itself which gave us time to collect our thoughts.

I immediately turned to Brad and asked what should we do if it happens again.  It did, but not as bad.

Nobody said anything for the rest of the journey, cold, scared and silently praying we would get to land safely.

Sunset brought about better conditions and a calm inner peace that we would be okay.

Sunset from Mexico to Belize
We didn't arrive on Caye Caulker until well after dark.  It was when the Captain gave a 'Hail Mary' when we docked that the seriousness of the journey really dawned on me.  It also became the talk of the island over the next few days.

Caye Caulker is an amazingly colourful and relaxing island paradise off the coast of Belize.  Belize and the island are also English speaking which for a country nestled between Spanish speaking Central and South Americas, is truly a mind trip.  Belize used to be ruled by Britain but is now an independent country which accepts both Belize and US dollars.

Caye Caulker, Belize
Its characters will intrigue you, food delight you and its activities will keep you busy for hours.  We stayed four days, but could have stayed many more.

Colourful characters of Caye Caulker

I definitely recommend just 'hanging out' at the Lazy Lizard and The Split where tourists and locals alike mingle to sunbake, eat and drink beside the aqua blue calm waters while others take advantage of snorkelling, kayaking and tubing.  It is here that days turn into afternoons and evenings very quickly.

The Split, Caye Caulker
Tubing at The Split, Caye Caulker
One of my favourite memories down by The Split on Caye Caulker was becoming a wedding crasher.  As it turned out, the couple getting married were from Noosa in Queensland.

We became the closest friends they had to home and gladly accepted an invitation to their reception which included several other travellers they had met on their journey.

We became wedding crashers on Caye Caulker
And one of Brad's best memories, he will tell you, is swimming with sharks.

In just a half day snorkelling tour, we experienced moray eels, barracudas and many sharks and sting rays.

Snorkelling off Caye Caulker

Snorkelling Shark-Ray Alley off Caye Caulker






Despite the rough beginning, Caye Caulker was worth the harrowing journey getting there.

It is definitely one island paradise I will return to one day.

Caye Caulker is the perfect place to relax and unwind


Saturday 9 February 2013

It's the end of the world as we know it....

A relatively simple ADO public bus ride which took about an hour and a half from Cancun and we arrived in Playa Del Carmen.

We had been thinking of bypassing Playa altogether because we thought it would be 'same same but different' as Cancun.  Call it the universe working in mysterious ways or simply just wanting to catch up with the very cool Natalie Patch and her bro Steven that we decided to spend a few days there.

It was also the place we would spend for the end of the world.

I am so glad we did!  Playa Del Carmen is nothing like Cancun and has so much more of a relaxed and inclusive vibe.  I would recommend Playa over Cancun any day of the week.  The only thing better in Cancun is the pristine aqua blue ocean.


Playa Del Carmen, Mexico








We originally wanted to spend the end of the world in Tulum however due to poor planning particularly at this epic time in the Mayan calendar, we were too late to book anything.  So we decided on a day trip there instead.  Tulum and its ruins are an easy one hour ADO bus ride south from Playa and are most famous for where it is located, right on the ocean front.  It is one of the last cities inhabited and built by the Mayans and one of the most intact.

Tulum ruins, Mexico

Tulum ruins, Mexico
Because Tulum is right on the beach, after spending a few hours surveying the ruins in the steaming hot sun you can then take a much needed swim at the beach.  That same pristine aqua blue ocean found in Cancun is also found here.  Plonk yourself on a beach side bar swing seat and you will waste a good few hours with not a care in the world, trust me!

Tulum, Mexico

Back in Playa it was time to prepare for the end of the world.  We were headed to a 24 hour festival called Day Zero.  I feared that by the end of the 24 hours if the world hadn't ended, we were going to wish it did.

Set amongst a backdrop of fake Mayan ruins, strobe lights, trance tracks and the most tripped out people you have ever met, we danced and laughed the night away.  A bonfire was lit on the podium dance floor and Mayan dancers joined hipster tripsters to chant to the flames conjuring the spirits of the Mayan gods.

Day Zero festival, Playa Del Carmen
Day Zero festival, Playa Del Carmen
I wish I could say we lasted the full 24 hours but we're just not as hardcore as half the people at the festival, willing to forgo the comfort of a bed and sleep on the cold hard ground.

We made it back the next day to pick up where we left off, dancing to the same beat and joining hundreds of others to ponder if the end of the world was really coming.

Day Zero festival, Playa Del Carmen
Curiously, the end of the Mayan calendar arrived to the sound of Phil Collins 'In the Air Tonight'.  Personally I thought R.E.M's 'It's the End of the World as We Know It' would have been a better fit but hey, I'm sure most of the people at the festival were that tripped out, the song was the perfect choice.

We knew the world was never going to end and most Mexicans we met on our travels also knew it was never going to end but it was a brilliant money spinner and the tourism industry lapped it up.

The 'end of the world' was more about one era ending and a new beginning starting.  What an awesome concept and one that everyone no matter where they were around the world could adopt.

Whether it be a relationship ending, changing jobs, being a better person or something as simple as cleaning out your wardrobe, why wouldn't you embrace and celebrate an 'out with the old and in with the new' mentality.


Day Zero festival, Playa Del Carmen